How to select the right dog
Obtaining, committing, raising, training and caring for a canine companion throughout its expected lifetime is like raising a preschool child who never grows up, who remains forever sweet and never asks you for the keys to your car.

Select the type of dog or puppy suited to your particular lifestyle. If your household is active, then select a dog who loves to be active too. If your household is quiet, then select a dog who prefers less activity.

You must be home to tend to a puppy similarly to a human infant.

Involve everyone living in your household in the selection of a dog. Make sure the animal acts friendly and accepts everyone and everyone accepts that animal.

If everyone is at work, consider two dogs so they keep each other company. This works well, too, when you go out for the evening. Most dogs cannot handle the loneliness of being by themselves. They are "pack animals" by nature and history.

Supplies
You will need a food bowl and water bowl medium or large size. Heavier non-tipping kinds are best. Leash, soft collar (ABC recommends the martingale), identification tag, safe toys such as nylabones, chew ropes, rubber balls and fleece hugables and, of course, quality dog food are necessary items.

Please see our Wish List as well!

Nutrition
Premium foods are worth the extra few cents. Quality meat ingredients are used (like people buy from the butcher). No harmful additives such as extra salt, sugar, fillers or artificial coloring and known carcinogenic preservatives are added; premium foods are generally naturally preserved.

What your dog eats has a lot to do with his/her health and behavior. ABC feeds its sanctuary rescues lamb and rice based Nutro Max and Avoderm.

Healthcare
It takes more throughout your pet's live to properly provide regular and accidental needed veterinarian care. As annual complete physical, booster immunizations and grooming (including flea and tick protection) should be planned into every budget.

In addition, a few hundred dollars should be set aside for those unexpected emergencies.

There are also many low cost health care insurance programs available that can save you a lot of expense.

Training
If you're going to have a puppy or dog, you must plan the time, money and effort to train it professionally, that is, you with your dog.

Probably the number one single factor why owners "get rid of" their dog is due to uncontrolled behavior problems including "potty training." Puppies need socialization classes so they learn to "relate positively" towards other animals and people. The most crucial stage for this training to happen is between the ages of 12 to 15 weeks. Dogs and puppies need the security and communication line that develops between owner and pet through professional training.

Most behavior problems are correctable with humane training based on positive reinforcement and sharing the inside of your home like any other family member. Puppies and dogs want to please and training gives you and the pet a way of communicating what is wanted. It also establishes a bond and raises self-esteem and confidence in your dog.

In most places, trainers need not be licensed, so you need to check references and observe a class in session. The trainer must be kind, but firm, offering plenty of praise for the dog every time he/she does something well. Dogs or puppies should respond happily to the trainer. A few moments observation will give you all the information you need. It is also good to ask your veterinarian or local animal shelter for a trainer referral.

The result is your dog knows "how to be good" and becomes an asset in your household rather than a liability and you enjoy each other's company and affection for many year.

Where you should get a new dog or puppy
Local shelters, private parties or breeders who will give you a health record, history of veterinary care and a health guarantee for a minimum of 10 days in writing are where you should look for a new puppy or dog. And, be sure to inspect where the animal has been living. Note the conditions. The shelter should not hide any housing areas.

Most of all, do not give cash, because if there is a problem, you would have little proof of purchase and make recourse action very difficult. Again, seek out referrals from your friends and veterinarian.

Bringing a new cat home?
Do it right to avoid problems. Your friend has one cat too many and Harry, her sweet, four-year-old orange tabby, is tugging at your heartstrings. Are you thinking of welcoming Harry into your home, which is already occupied by Sally, an aloof calico who's 8? Don't just bring Harry home and let him loose. You're asking for one, if not two, unhappy cats. Keep them separate 2-3 weeks so they are gradually introduced to each other.

Allergies in small animals
Allergies are one of the more common reasons for a visit to the veterinarian. In general the most common allergies seen in animals are parasites such as fleas or mites, food allergies, and environmental allergies. Environmental allergies (atopy), which are somewhat comparable to "hay fever" in people, is the most common type of allergy seen in the southwest. This disease primarily affects the skin in animals. Affected animals will have "itchy" skin which they will scratch, lick) or even chew. The affected skin will initially become red and warm (inflamed) but with time may become dark and thickened with an unpleasant odor. The most common sites to scratch are the underside and flank, and the ears and feet, although any combination of areas may be seen. Patches of hair loss, crust or scabs, "hot spots," and excessive scale (dandruff) are signs of a possible secondary bacterial or yeast infection. These infections will usually make the animal even more uncomfortable, somewhat like adding fuel to the fire.

Because many other skin diseases appear similar to allergies, it may be necessary to rule out conditions such as parasites (fleas, mites or mange), fungal infections (ringworm), or hormonal imbalances. Determining the actual cause of the allergy is a process of elimination, and your Veterinarian may recommend specialized testing or diets. Controlling any secondary infections during this time is important to prevent the infections from perpetuating the symptoms.

Treatment of the allergy ideally includes avoidance, especially with food allergies, although this is more difficult with environmental allergies due to the fact the wind-blown pollens and mold spores may travel for many miles. Many medications which control the symptoms are available and may be recommended. In essence there are three types of options when dealing with environmental allergies. One drug that is commonly used is the cortisone (steroid) type drug. These may be found in injectable, pill, or topical formulations. In general these are potent drugs which work quickly, are inexpensive, and require no special testing to use. The disadvantage is potential side effects which may include increased hunger and thirst, weight gain, muscle loss, and with time increased risk for diabetes, liver disease, pancreatitis, bladder infections, or other metabolism changes. Certainly not all animals experience these side affects. It depends on the individual patient, the dose used, and the length of time they are used.

A second non-steroid approach includes supportive care such as frequent baths with gentle hypoallergenic shampoos (such as oatmeal based), and after-bath leave-on, anti-itch conditioners. Daily wipe downs of the coat and skin with a damp washcloth should also be done to reduce exposure of the pollens clinging to the coat and absorbing directly into the skin. Keeping the hair coat cut short can also reduce how much pollen and mold spores is attracted to the skin and makes it easier to keep them clean. Keep in mind the pollens and molds are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye, but they are there. Over bathing is not a problem for most allergic dogs, and they should be bathed at least weekly. Antihistamines and fatty acids (fish oil, not vegetable oil) can also reduce the scratching and inflammation. The advantage of this approach is the high safety and the fact no special testing is required, although disadvantages include higher maintenance cost, and they are labor-intensive, time-consuming methods. These methods are not effective for some of the more seriously allergic patients.

Another option for dealing with allergies includes allergy testing and allergy shots which is also known as de-sensitization or immunotherapy. The advantages of allergy shots are they can be one of the more safe, easy, and inexpensive methods to deal with the allergies in the long run. The drawbacks include initial higher expense (for testing), and an average time of 2-6 months being required before a response can be seen. Several methods are available for testing. Most general practitioners are able to perform a blood test (RAST or ELISA). Most veterinary dermatology specialists believe that the intradermal skin test is more accurate with better long-term results, but this test is not always available except with someone who deals with large numbers of allergic patients.

Some animals have mild enough problems that just one option is enough while other animals need a combination of the above. Just as in human medicine, a "cure" for allergies remains difficult, although there are many effective methods to "control" the problem and make your companion more comfortable. Thomas P. Lewis II D.V.M.(433-0879) Diplomate American College of Veterinary Dermatology.

The Responsibilities of Cat-Keeping
by Veterinarian Dr. Michael Fox
Dr. Michael Fox is vice president of Farm Animals and Bioethics of the HSUS. Reprinted from The Humane Society News, Winter 1987. The Humane Society of the United States 2100 L Street, NW, Washington, DC 20037

I advise cat owners that, if they really care for cats, they should also care for all creatures, and that it is as much their responsibility to protect wildlife from their cats as it is to protect their cats from outdoor hazards.

At one time, human beings lived not simply close to nature, but with nature, like all the other animals. Today, most of us have no real connection in our everyday lives with nature or with wild animals. Our parks and gardens are mere facsimiles of all that was once wild.

The few "wild" creatures - birds, rodents, snakes, lizards, and insects - that live close to us (and that we often demean as "pests") are the last survivors of the animal kingdom in our immediate environment.

Like the tamed landscapes that we have created, so are our domesticated farm and companion animals tamed, docile, and transformed facsimiles of their wild ancestors. There is one exception: the cat. Unlike most breeds of dogs, the average cat is much closer to its wild primitive, the desert cat Felis libyca, than the dog is to its purported wolf ancestor, Canis lupus pallipes.

Because of its naturalness, self-reliance, independence of will, and wild spirit, the cat appeals to those persons whom I call "cat people." The natural cat loves you on its own terms. The average cat is wilder and more natural physically and psychologically than the average dog because the cat has been domesticated for a much shorter period of time, approximately 6,000 years, compared to an estimated 14,000 years for the dog.

During most of this time, the cat was simply tamed, socialized to humans, but not changed significantly in other ways because its purpose was to hunt, especially to keep rodents away from households, grain, and food-storage areas.

Because of its relatively short period of domestication and utilitarian role in mankind's universe, we have not seen in the cat such extreme variations of species type as the Chihuahua or Great Dane, found in the dog family. As cat breeders begin to breed selectively cats with mutant traits such as brachycephaly (short faces), dolichocephaly (long faces), large and small stature folded ears, long and thin bones, unusual eye and coat colors, curly hair, and hairlessness, we will, in a few decades, have as many recognized varieties of cats as there are various breeds of dogs today.

All "cat people"- as distinct from "cat fanciers"- share my concern that many of these new varieties will suffer from the inherited health problems that are so common in purebred dogs as a consequence of selective breeding for certain traits and in-breeding. These can be avoided and the welfare and rights of future generations of cats better ensured if cat fanciers stop producing structurally, functionally and in other ways abnormal cats, and if prospective cat owners choose healthy, natural-looking cats.

Some cat lovers go a little too far, however-believing that, if they are going to keep a cat, it should not only be natural-looking, but also should live as natural a life as possible. That natural life, to them, includes being able to roam free outdoors, hunt and kill wild animals, and breed with other cats. and produce offspring.

While I understand the logic of such cat owners, I regard their views as irresponsible. Free-roaming cats can get into fights with other cats that often result in severe bite abscesses; can pick up infectious diseases such as feline influenza, distemper, and leukemia from other cats and rabies and plague from wild animals; and can bring home fleas, lice, ticks, and mites. Free-roaming cats are killed by automobiles and, not infrequently, by free roaming dogs and hunters. In some areas, they are also victimized by traps set to catch wild animals for their fur; stolen and sold to research laboratories; or sacrificed to train pit bull terriers to fight and kill.

Free roaming cats also get lost and starve to death or die from infections. Many will kill wildlife, even bringing injured prey home. Wild animals have enough problems surviving as it is, and cat people who respect the rights of all creatures keep their cats indoors to prevent such needless killing. (An exception may be made for "working cats" that control rodents around farms and warehouses. These cats should be provided with veterinary. care when needed, vaccinated, and neutered to control their numbers, three basic rights that they are rarely granted.)

Free-roaming killer cats also compete with and displace native wild predators such as the fox, marten, weasel, and wildcat, sometimes even transmitting infectious diseases to them.

I respect and love cats, but one thing that does enrage me is seeing them carrying dead birds, squirrels, and other wildlife that they have killed. Only too often, since they are home-fed house cats, they don't eat what they kill, so the death of these creatures is point less, One could argue that it is right to let cats follow their natural instincts and that it is an inhumane violation of their rights to confine them indoors when they want to go out to hunt and kill. but what of the rights of wildlife that have a hard enough time surviving, since so much of their habitat is being taken over and destroyed by people?

That cats help keep certain urban and suburban wildlife species "in balance" (such as rats, mice, and pigeons) is a flawed justification for' letting them out to kill, since they are generally non-selective. They kill whatever they can, from young birds (whose parents feed them on the ground before they can fly or fend for themselves) and helpless ground-nesting birds, such as pheasants and quail.

One evening, I saw a neighbor's cat carrying a dead squirrel in its jaws. I asked the cat's owner, who was in her garden next door, how she felt about allowing her cat to roam freely and kill wildlife. She immediately took offense, thinking I was telling her how she should keep her cat inside, and demanded that I mind my own business. But it was my business-I was concerned for the squirrel and other wild creatures that her cat and a half-dozen others in the vicinity were killing constantly. Mv neighbor blamed one of the other cats for encouraging hers to hunt, but I pointed out that cats hunt alone and don't need others' encouragement. Then she said she hadn't seen her cat for two days and was worried. I suggested that, it might be going wild-feral-and that the more it got a taste for the outdoors, the harder it would be to keep it indoors. When kept in-doors, her cat was already expressing its frustration by spraying all over the place, even though it was neutered.

My advice to people with killer cats that can't tolerate being indoors all the time is not to let them out except long after dawn and bring them in well before dusk, since cats hunt most efficiently around dawn, dusk. and through the night.

A better alternative is to try training the cat to enjoy being outdoors, under supervision, in a pen or on a harness (provided the yard is dog proof). Some enjoy walks on a harness. Be warned, however if frightened, the cat may climb on you for protection and injure you with its claws.

Prevention is the best medicine and by this I mean starting out right from kittenhood and never letting the cat outdoors. Life indoors can be satisfying for cats provided with a companion cat and carpeted window shelves for sun bathing and surveying the outdoors. Cats don't usually get frustrated when kept indoors until they have had a taste of the outdoors.

I advise cat owners that, if they really care for cats, they should also care for all creatures,and that it is as much their responsibility to protect wildlife from their cats as it is to protect their cats from outdoor hazards.

My offended neighbor loved her cat, but love is not enough. Responsibility and understanding make a cat lover into an animal person, one who respects not only the rights and needs of his or her own animal companion but also the rights and interests of other creatures wild and tame.

A cat's domesticated life indoors can be enriched in many ways to satisfy its basic needs. The cat can be provided with a companion, ideally a kitten of the opposite sex. It is best to raise two kittens together and never allow them outdoors, since, once cats have gotten used to roaming outdoors, they may resent being confined at a later age.

Two cats together are generally healthier and happier than those that live alone, though it is true some do seem to prefer to have only humans for company when they mature, and especially when they have been raised without any contact with their own kind.

A pair of cats can play and sleep together, groom each other and generally take care of each other and provide for their social needs. This is especially important when one remembers that in most homes, children and adults are away all day at school and work. Cats left alone without a companion all day may suffer from boredom: some become lethargic and obese, others groom themselves excessively, sometimes to the point of self-mutilation, and may even become un-housebroken-a very common symptom of emotional distress.

I advise cat owners to provide their cats with a one-meter-tall scratch post; a tree branch or carpet-covered pole to climb with one or two carpeted shelves to lie on or boxes to hide in; expanded shelves covered with carpet material or more windows; a screened-in balcony or screened window where the cats can go out in good weather; or an outdoor enclosure (while supervised).

A good arrangement for cats is to build an enclosure at least five feet wide and twelve feet long (the longer the better). The enclosure should be covered with chicken wire so the cats cannot climb out, and half of the top covered with plywood or tarpaulin to provide shade and shelter. Include a litter box, placed inside a large box open at one end to keep rain out. The floor of the enclosure can he seeded with grass and planted with small shrubs. A large tree branch for climbing and resting boards for sunning set up like shelves, three feet wide and two feet deep, at convenient heights along the side of the enclosure, are welcome additions.

Provide a warm insulated box (two feet by three feet by two feet high) with a small entry hole and a blanket for each cat. The cats can be put inside the enclosure during good weather. A very effective arrangement is to give the cats free access to the enclosure from the house via a one-foot square, wire-mesh-enclosed runway connecting from a flap door cut into a window. A similar set-up for cats can be arranged using a screened-in porch. They will enjoy a few pots of grass on the porch floor and a large tree branch for climbing.

Many cats enjoy having a bird feeder set up out side so they can watch the birds from the window. Some even enjoy spending time observing fish in an aquarium, which should be securely covered to protect the fish.

Cardboard boxes and large paper bags make excellent hideaways for cats and can be used for games of ambush and hide-and-seek.

Cats are especially active early in the evening, and this is a good time to play with them. Hide-and-seek games and catching "prey" such as a strip of fake fur on the end of a piece of string will entertain cats for long periods of time, giving them beneficial exercise and strengthening the emotional bond between them and their human companions. Some cats, especially Siamese, will learn to retrieve a toy and enjoy having it thrown for them to catch.

People who play with their cats while they are kittens often find that their cats remain playful and attentive when they mature.

With a minimum of effort and expense, a cat's home environment can be so enriched that it thrives and its owners need feel no guilt about not allowing Puss its freedom outdoors.

Because cats are so adaptable to our modern life-styles, especially to life in apartments, and since they do not need to be taken outdoors regularly, their popularity is increasing. They are in many ways, more convenient and less demanding of one's time and attention than dogs, which suffer much more from being left alone for extended periods and have no natural instinct or ability to learn to use a litter box.

I hope that those who might find the idea of restricting cats' activity to the indoors offensive will consider this position very carefully from an ethical and responsible perspective. The risks and costs to cats and wildlife allowing these animals to roam free are far outweighed by the benefits of allowing them to be indoor companions.

De-Clawing: Behavior Modification or Destructive Surgery?
Cats have retractile nails, also known as "claws". Unlike most mammals who walk on the soles of their paws or feet, cats are digitigrades, which means that they walk on their toes. A cat's claws are used for balance, for exercising, and for stretching the muscles in the legs, back, and paws. Scratching is also used to mark a cat's territory. Some cat's use their claws to scratch items that we humans may feel are in appropriate. This type of natural scratching behavior is often considered to be "destructive behavior". As a result, many people feel that the removal of a cat's claws to prevent inappropriate scratching is an acceptable practice. It is not. A cat's claw is the anatomic equal of the last bone or digit of the human finger or toe. Therefore, declawing is the equivalent to amputating the first digit of a person's finger or toe. Think about the declawing experience from a cat's perspective. She is removed from her safe, familiar surroundings and taken to a veterinarian's office where she is poked with needles. When she awakens from the general anesthesia she has been given for the surgery, her feet are throbbing from pain. Then for the next two to three weeks her paws will be so tender that their ability to walk, climb, and jump will be drastically impaired. She may also associate the pain she endures while scratching in her litter box to the litter box itself, and begin to use the box inconsistently out of fear of the discomfort. She will never be able to scratch a post or use her claws to grab a toy again. A cat that has been declawed is completely defenseless against other animals. Declawed cats must never be allowed outdoors where they are vulnerable to attack by dogs and cats.

Veterinarian Kimberly Harrison refuses to perform declaw procedures. She states that "behavioral" problems frequently haunt declawed cats. By far the commonest thing we see is cats not using the litter box. When cats have stress beyond what they can take it often shows up as a litter box problem and declawing makes them stress intolerant, in general for the rest of their lives. Dr. Harrison gets 3 to 12 calls a day about litter box problems in cats and, after ruling out medical problems, 90% of the cats with litter box aversion are declawed cats. Many cats also suffer from complications after declawing surgery. A 1994 study by the Department of Veterinary Clinical Science at Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine found that of 163 cats that endured declaw surgery, 50% has one or more complications immediately after surgery. Of the 121 cats whose progress was followed after surgery, 20% has continued complications, such as infection, bone protection into the pad of the paw, and prolonged intermittent lameness and abnormal stance (standing posture). Declawing is illegal in the United Kingdom and many other countries. So why do American vets continue to perform such a barbaric procedure? Dr. Harrison feels that vets in the U.S. continue to perform this surgery because it is not in the vet's "financial best interests to discourage declawing". Dr. Harrison states that "declawing is easy money" for veterinarians and it takes less time to perform the surgery than to discuss alternatives to the procedures with clients. You may be asking yourself, "But what if the cat's guardian has tried everything else and declawing is the only option for keeping a cat that has "destructive scratching habits?" Most cats can eventually be taught to scratch only in appropriate places. Plus, alternatives to declawing are available. Keep in mind that declawing a cat will only solve one specific behavior problem and many will be catalyst for other problems - such as soiling outside the litter box or biting - behaviors that may well result in their being surrendered to a shelter anyway.

Declawing greatly infringes upon a cat's ability to partake in a variety of natural behaviors and can impact the cat's mental and physical well being. As the Association of Veterinarians for Animals Rights summed up in a recent statement: " It would seem more ethical and humane to accept that claws and scratching are inherent feline attributes, and to adjust one's life accordingly if a cat is desired as a companion. If this [scratching] is unacceptable, then perhaps a different companion would be in order".

As a diversion, attach bubble wrap; tin foil, slippery wax paper, or double-sided sticky tape to the object your kitty scratches.

Smear citrus-scented liquid or commercial cat repellent on the item your cat likes to scratch.

Provide a scratching post or other appropriate scratching surfaces in every room of your house. Carpet-covered posts, wicker baskets or hampers, sisal-covered posts, or even scratching boxes made of cardboard make good scratching surfaces.

Vertical scratching posts should be sturdy and high enough for your cat to stretch out when scratching.

Place the scratching post near the inappropriate item your cat prefers to scratch.

When your cat scratches an item that is off-limits, gently carry her to the nearest scratching post and remind her to scratch it by making scratching motions with her claws.

Praise your cat when she scratches where she should and interrupt her when she scratches elsewhere. A squirt from a bottle of water may provide negative reinforcement when she scratches in the wrong place. Or make a noise, such as clapping your hands, or using a shake can or jar filled with a few pebbles or coins.

If you cat isn't interested in the scratching surfaces you provide him, sprinkle or spray the surfaces with catnip to entice his interest. Do this on a weekly basis to keep kitty interests.

Ask your Veterinarian to show you how to correctly clip your cat's claws/nails. A cat's front claws should be clipped every week or two. Trimming the back claws is rarely necessary.

Getting your cat accustomed to having his or her paws handled is a must prior to initiating nail trimming. Start preparing your kitty or cat for nail trimming sessions by lightly stroking he paws and gently separating her toes so that the claw is visible. Do this on a regular basis until she is comfortable enough with the process to allow you to trim her claws. Trim just enough to make the claws blunt, but not so short that you cut into the quick.

Keeping Your Cat Indoors
Please, Don’t let the kitty get out. The "Great Outdoors" sounds ideal for a cat, but before you let your feline friend out, please consider the dangers they will be faced with...

CAT FIGHTS can result in abscessed wounds, parasites and infections followed by costly trips to the vet

CARS present several dangers to your pet. Your cat can be hit by a car, causing serious injuries or death. Cats will climb up under car hoods to get warm and then get caught in the fan or fan belt when the engine is started. Cats like the taste of antifreeze, which causes an irreversible, painful death.

INFECTIOUS DISEASES like Feline Leukemia and upper respiratory infections are much more prevalent in outdoor cats. Your cat runs the risk of becoming infected with disease every time it goes outside. (Inoculations are not 100% effective). Fleas and ticks abound!

COYOTES, DOGS, OWLS, HAWKS and other animals commonly attack and severely injure or kill cats allowed outside.

Your cat can get LOCKED IN neighborhood basements, garages, or sheds.

The most dangerous of all are PEOPLE. Mean, sick people who have an open dislike for cats have been known to trap, torture, kick, stomp, and poison outdoor cats.

THE AVERAGE LIFE SPAN OF AN OUTDOOR CAT IS ONLY 18 MONTHS.

THE AVERAGE LIFE SPAN OF AN INDOOR CAT IS 18 YEARS!

Cats can be perfectly happy living strictly indoors. Given toys to play with, their own scratching post, a clean litter box, and lots of love and attention, they can live a long and fulfilling life.

If you still want your cat to go outdoors, try one of the following methods:
> Walk your cat on a harness and leash.
> Build a "run" or "kennel" in your yard or outside a window. These are commercially available at stores like Lowes, Home Depot, Ryan's Pet Supply and many others.
> Install a system such as "Cat Fence-In" to keep your cat in your yard and other cats out. To receive product info from "Cat Fence-In," please call them at 1-888-738-9099.

Plan before you move or leave on vacation
Any change can be traumatic for a pet. Plan ahead to make it as easy as possible on your dog or cat. When going on vacation, you can make reservations at a hotel or motel that accepts pets. Most allow such arrangements providing your have a large airline kennel or sturdy wire cage to restrict your dog when you are not in the room.

Take along your pet's favorite blanket, toys and food bowls. If you cannot take your dog along then arrange to have a 24-hour in-house sitter stay in your home. Make sure the person(s) is licensed and bonded. Check references and have the person(s) over to meet your dog.

Boarding kennels are another alternative, but many are operated at sub-standard levels especially since they are not licensed nor need to account for their care conditions. Again, examine their facility on an unannounced visit. If they won't let you see the place - leave! Veterinarian referrals or your local animal shelter might be able to recommend a boarding facility, but still go out and check. What you see is not always what your pet receives.

If you are moving, put your pet with his or her favorite things in a single room with the door shut. If possible, take your pet to visit your new home or apartment a few times before the actual moving day. If renting, many landlords now allow pets with a sizable deposit or monthly fee. Save extra money in advance for that charge.

Renters are out there but you have to call around and ask. This is a dependent life that should never be left behind.

On the question of euthanasia
This is always a difficult decision to make. Signs to watch for are great difficulty in walking, animal isn't interested in eating his/her favorite foods or loss of bowel control.

Your should involve your veterinarian in this decision. Taking your old now unwanted dog or cat to the local shelter is not death with dignity. Instead, you should take your dog to the veterinarian, hold it lovingly in your arms and let your loyal companion go gently and peacefully. They depend on us and deserve this ending with dignity. Take a friend with you if you need moral support.

Be prepared to go through the grieving process, so allow yourself a few weeks to ease the pain. Other pets in the household need some time too. Shelters often experience dogs being returned because the owner or other household pet were, after all, not ready to accept a new dog.

There are many books and grief counseling groups available if you or any member of your family need to talk to someone. Ask your local shelter and/or your veterinarian. Know in your heart you have done what your loving companion appreciated and counted on you to do.

Provisions should your pet outlive you
This happens frequently with the animal winding up abandoned or in a local shelter. Plan to have a family member or a personal friend who will sincerely make that commitment to care for your pet should something happen to you first. Don't push the issue. See who really empathizes with your feelings and concerns and designate that person to obtain your pet. Ask about our Continuing Care Program by calling 602-971-0839.

Remember dogs and cats are like children and will become anguished without you and a plan for their continued care.

Advice for the Hot Summer Months
Heat stress can cause any pet to suffer. However, very young and very old pets, pets with a previous history of heat stroke, short nosed breeds, overweight pets, and pets with heart or respiratory problems are particularly susceptible.

HOT CARS! Leave your pet at home when temperatures are above 85 degrees. Hot cars kill. Normal cat or dog body temperatures range from 101-102 degrees, so pets can't handle the heat as well as people can. On a hot day with the car windows open, the temperature inside the car can reach 215 degrees inside of 10 minutes. Within those short moments your pet can suffer irreparable brain damage and even die from heat stroke.

HOT SIDEWALKS! Walk with your dog only on grass or when the concrete is cool. Please remember, dogs take up heat through their bare paws, it only takes a moment to burn their sensitive pads. Feel the concrete with your hand for about a minute to determine if it's too hot for your dog's comfort. As a general rule, walk at 5 AM and after 10 PM. If you must walk your dog during the daytime, buy 'cool paws' (dog booties) to keep your dog's pads cool. They're inexpensive, easy to put on and readily available in the Phoenix area. It would be inhumane not to do otherwise.

TRANSPORTATION! When transporting your pet, put him or her inside your air-conditioned vehicle. If your vehicle doesn’t have air conditioning, place a wet towel over your pet's back and head and place a frozen bottle of water along your pet’s side. NEVER place your pet in the back of an open pickup truck where the hot metal burns your dog's feet or a sharp turn or stop can throw the dog out onto the road. Airline flights should be out of the question during the summer, unless your pet is small enough to fly in the cabin area with you. Remember, pets can and do die from heat stroke when they are unloaded and waiting to be brought into the air-conditioned terminal. Extreme heat interferes with a dog's or cat's cooling process, that is, evaporation through panting.

HOUSING! The best, the happiest, and the coolest place for your pet is inside your home. Dogs should have a doggie door and cats should be totally inside with a cat condo window view safe from harm's way. However, if your pet must be outside for long periods of time, provide your pet with lots of shade and a deep bowl or bucket (a gallon or more) of water secured to prevent accidental tipping. Keeping the water cold is easy if you submerge a plastic quart bottle of frozen water. Keep an extra one in your freezer so it’s ready when the first one thaws out. Misters with a fan blowing in a shady area are also helpful. Shallow swimming pools with a gallon of frozen water will help provide your pet with another life saving escape from the heat.

FULL SIZE POOLS! Pets aren't waterproof. Without supervision or training on how to swim (not natural for all dogs) and where to get out, a swimming pool is a major hazard. Very young and very old dogs and cats are most vulnerable, as well as small dogs that may not be able to climb out even if they are able to reach a step or edge.

IF YOUR PET IS OVERCOME BY HEAT, GIVE IMMEDIATE FIRST AID BY SUBMERSING HIM OR HER IN COOL WATER. HAVE YOUR VETERINARIAN CHECK YOUR PET OR RUSH TO THE NEAREST EMERGENCY CLINIC FOR HELP!

Introducing your new baby to your pet
The birth of a baby or adoption of a new child is associated with a great deal of anxiety, excitement, stress and change not only for the human members of the family, but also the family pet. Some dogs and cats can have a difficult time adjusting to a new child, but preparation and planning will help your pet cope with the changes.

How is my pet likely to respond to the new baby?
There are so many different variables that contribute to any pet's reaction to a new child that it is impossible to accurately predict the way that any pet will respond. However, there are some considerations that might give some insight into your pet's most likely reaction.

The first of these considerations is how much exposure to children your pet has previously had and his reaction to those children. The most serious concern, of course, is if the pet has previously behaved aggressively or fearfully around children. If there have been previous problems you should consult with a behaviorist to determine the situations that have previously led to aggression, and the safest way, if any, to make the transition. If the pet's previous problems were with a specific child, a specific age group or under specific circumstances, it may be possible to design a program so that the previous situations that resulted in aggression can be treated and resolved prior to the arrival of your new child.

The next most serious concern is the pet that has had little or no exposure to young children or babies. A lack of early socialization to children may lead to some initial anxiety or fear associated with the sights, sounds and odors of the new child. If there are no unpleasant experiences when the child first arrives, and the first few introductions are made positive, there may be no problems. Even if a pet has shown no previous problems when interacting with children, keeping all introductions positive will help to get the relationship between your pet and your new child off to a good start.

One final concern is your pet's behavior and temperament in general. Behavior issues that don't come into play with an infant may become more problematic with the growth and development of your child. Some pets that were okay with a child that was carried everywhere may have trouble adapting to the same child learning to crawl, walk and play more interactively. Fear, dominance challenges, possessive displays, and even some rambunctious playful behaviors can result in aggression toward the child. Anxiety or fear can also lead to anorexia, compulsive disorders or destructiveness (e.g. house-soiling, marking, chewing, digging).

What can we do to prepare for the arrival of our baby?
Behavior problems (destructiveness, house-soiling, compulsive disorders, increased demand for attention, generalized anxiety) may not develop directly from the arrival of the child, but rather from the changes in the household routine associated with the new arrival. With nine months or more to prepare for a baby's arrival, the best way to minimize problems and help the pet to cope is to make changes gradually so that they have been completed prior to the arrival of the child. Consider any changes that you may need to make in the pet's schedule, housing, play, exercise or attention so that adjustments can begin to be made well before the baby's arrival. Set up the nursery in advance and if the pet is to be kept out of the room, access should be denied before the child's arrival. If your intention is to allow your pet to continue to enter the room when supervised, begin to accompany your pet into the nursery so that it can adapt to the new odors and new setup. The dog should be allowed to investigate the baby's room, blankets and new furniture, and praised or given a small food treat so that it can develop a positive association with each of these new cues.

For dogs, reviewing or upgrading obedience skills is essential so that you can safely and effectively control your dog in all situations. Obedience training should be reviewed every day in a variety of locations and circumstances. Practice each command in different rooms of the home, in the yard, while out on walks and when visitors come to the home. Concentrate on those commands that are presently the least successful, using prompts and rewards to achieve success and then gradually shaping the response so that the pet stays for progressively longer times, comes from greater distances and will heel and follow even when there are distractions. Any existing behavior problems should be resolved before the arrival of your baby.

Some pets might become anxious or fearful of any of the new and different stimuli associated with the sights sounds or odors of the new child. New activities associated with childcare can be practiced in front of pets so that they can become familiar with them. Tape recordings or videos of babies crying, holding a doll wrapped in a blanket, taking your dog for a walk beside a stroller or even going through the motions of changing a diaper and applying baby powder will simulate some of the experiences to which your pet will soon be exposed. If there is any sign of anxiety associated with any of these situations, then more formal reward-based training should be practiced and repeated until the pet exhibits no problems in the presence of stimuli. By providing a favored chew toy, giving a food reward or providing extra affection during these activities, you pet may actually learn to enjoy these new stimuli.

Once your pet shows little or no fear or anxiety in these situation, you may want to enlist the help of friends or relatives with young children. Dogs can be taken for a walk while the child is rolled in the stroller or carriage. A baby can be carried around the home or nursed in the presence of the dog and children should be encouraged to play at the opposite end of a room or yard from where the dog is situated. The dog must be well controlled, preferably with a leash and head halter and given food rewards and /or play to keep the association positive. A Gentle Leader head collar could also be worn to ensure additional safety, especially when being exposed to new situations. By the end of the visit it may even be possible to let the dog interact with the child but only if it remains friendly and shows no fear or anxiety.

For cats, the most important adaptation is to any changes that will be needed in the cat's home. Although fear and anxiety to the sights and sounds of a new baby are possible, adapting to changes in the household are often the most trying for cats. For example, obtaining new furniture, altering the cat's feeding, sleeping, elimination or play areas and trying to keep the cat out of certain locations such as the crib, should all be considered before the arrival of the baby. To reduce the changes of the cat marking new furniture, the first few introductions to the new areas should be well supervised. Once your cat has investigated and rubbed against the new furniture spraying is far less likely. Similarly, when the crib or cradle is first set up the cat may wish to mark the area or investigate or even to sleep in the crib.

Remember, each of these techniques are intended to help the pet adapt to changes in the household or lifestyle before the arrival of the baby. Once the baby arrives there will be far less time to tend to the needs of the pet and there will be additional variables to which your pet will need to adapt. Even if your pet does begin to exhibit fear or anxiety during this pre-arrival training, such anxiety will not be associated with the presence of the child. The cat will nave no reason to develop animosity to the new child.

What should be done when the baby arrives?
Progress gradually. Avoid any situations that might lead to fear, anxiety or discomfort in the baby's presence and make all associations and experiences in the baby's presence positive. Maintain or even increase the amount and type of training, exercise and play.

Even a curious and affectionate pet my have some problems adjusting to the new arrival. Jumping up to greet when the baby is being carried barking during baby's sleep or nap times, raiding the diaper pail, licking the baby's face or cuddling up to sleep against an infant who is still unable to shift position are just a few of the concerns and potential problems that pet owners may need to deal with. Keep your pet's nails well trimmed. Supervise all interactions between the pet and baby. Keep the pet out of the baby's room during nap and sleeping times. Ensure that your dog is well controlled and responsive to obedience training commands. For some dogs, leaving a leash attached (preferably to a head collar) is a useful way to ensure additional control. (Make sure the dog is never unsupervised while wearing a leash or head collar.)

the most important aspect of retraining is to reward the pet for obedient and relaxed behavior in the presence of the child. In many households there will be less time and energy available for the pet. While focused on the child or attending to chores associated with parenthood, the pet may be ignored, disciplined for approaching too close or confined to a different area of the home. Your pet may still receive its play exercise affection, food and attention but often not until the baby is finally asleep or is under the care of some other family member. Many pets soon learn that the presence of the baby is a time for inattention, confinement or even punishment while the absence of the baby is a cue for "good things" to happen. This must be reversed. Every effort should be made to allow the pet into the room for food, play or affection when the baby is present. Feed the pet when the baby is being fed or have another family member give affection the the pet when the child is in the room. Take your dog outdoors for play or a walk when you are taking the child out. The goal is to teach the pet that positive or good thing are most likely to happen in the presence of the child.

What should be done if aggression arises?
Such behavior is very upsetting, regardless of its reasons. An immediate decision on whether to keep and work with the pet or remove it from the home must be made. Dogs targeting children may be motivated by fear, dominance, possessive, redirected, playful or predatory aggression. Such aggression may arise immediately when the child is brought into the home, or may begin as the child becomes more mobile or when the child grows a little older and begins to interact with the dog. Cat aggression toward children can be fear-induced, redirected, territorial, or play/predatory. For most aggression cases, especially those directed toward children, a behaviorist experienced in such issues would need to evaluate the situation, determine a prognosis and create an effective treatment program if it is safe to do so. Although some cases may be treated quickly and safely, most cases require extensive precautions to prevent injuries and a great deal of time, effort and commitment. Regardless of the reason for aggression, biting dogs should be leashed (attached to the owner), preferably with a head collar and closely supervised or crated in the presence of small children. Aggressive cats should be confined away from small children except when they are in a carrier, on a leash and harness or well supervised and either calm or otherwise occupied with food or toys.